Hot on the heels of a six-day fashion extravaganza in New York, all eyes turn to London for the city’s highly anticipated Fashion Week. This year, the event celebrates its 40th anniversary with a packed schedule. As part of the official calendar, England-based fashion brand Erdem brought unabashed opulence to the runways of London Fashion Week.

The Collection

On February 17, designer Erdem Moralıoğlu transformed the divine Parthenon Marbles at The British Museum into a lively tribute to American-born Greek soprano Maria Callas. Erdem’s Fall Winter 2024 collection painted an homage to the opera star, drawing inspiration from the grandiose style she popularized in the mid-20th century. 

Photo courtesy of the British Fashion Council. Photography by Cris Fragkou.

Photo courtesy of the British Fashion Council. Photography by Cris Fragkou.

With a color palette that ranged from rose blush and soft green to muted grey and vibrant red, Erdem’s new line blurred the lines of convention. Transitional closet staples, such as midi skirts and overcoats, were reimagined in painted-over floral print and swaths of feathers. As models showed off the combination of functionality and luxury, sleek full-length black gloves stood in stark contrast against dandelion yellow knitwear. 

Familiar winter fabrics were also given a chance to shine, with a number of tweed and herringbone pieces in the lineup. Erdem played on femininity and traditional silhouettes with detailed embroidery, dramatic lapels, and delicate lace, all of which were intricately incorporated into the collection. Flower-shaped brooches referenced the flowers thrown at performers by audiences, recalling the collection’s main inspiration. 

Photo courtesy of the British Fashion Council. Photography by Cris Fragkou.

The Guests

Friends of Erdem made appropriately classy appearances at the label’s show. Actress Lily James, a regular Erdem show attendee, wore a flower-print dress that aligned with the collection’s floral motifs. The copper roses on James’ dress complemented her metallic shoes and bronze makeup details. In contrast to the long-sleeved top and maxi skirt, James’ cropped sweetheart top was a playful take on upscale evening wear. 

Fellow actress Nicola Coughlan took a different direction with her all-red look. Coughlan’s gleaming scarlet dress and matching gloves were reminiscent of the actress’ role in the period drama Bridgerton. Wearing simple gold earrings and a bold red lip that complemented her sleek hairdo, Coughlan gave a lavish nod to the monochromatic trend spotted at NYFW. 

Modern Grandeur

Erdem’s Fall Winter 2024 collection honors Maria Callas’ legacy with an array of colors, accessories, and textures that combine skilled craftsmanship with brazen grandeur. The lineup rethinks daywear and evening attire in a way that balances its vintage inspirations and modern innovation, ramping up our excitement for what’s to come from the rest of London Fashion Week.

Keep scrolling to see the highlights of Erdem’s Fall Winter 2024 collection.

Photo courtesy of the British Fashion Council. Photography by Cris Fragkou.
Photo courtesy of the British Fashion Council. Photography by Cris Fragkou.

Photo courtesy of the British Fashion Council. Photography by Cris Fragkou.
Photo courtesy of the British Fashion Council. Photography by Cris Fragkou.
Photo courtesy of the British Fashion Council. Photography by Cris Fragkou.

Photo courtesy of the British Fashion Council. Photography by Cris Fragkou.
Photo courtesy of the British Fashion Council. Photography by Cris Fragkou.
Photo courtesy of the British Fashion Council. Photography by Cris Fragkou.
Photo courtesy of the British Fashion Council. Photography by Cris Fragkou.
Photo courtesy of the British Fashion Council. Photography by Cris Fragkou.

Photo courtesy of the British Fashion Council. Photography by Cris Fragkou.
Photo courtesy of the British Fashion Council. Photography by Cris Fragkou.
Photo courtesy of the British Fashion Council. Photography by Cris Fragkou.
Photo courtesy of the British Fashion Council. Photography by Cris Fragkou.
Photo courtesy of the British Fashion Council. Photography by Cris Fragkou.

Photo courtesy of the British Fashion Council. Photography by Cris Fragkou.
Photo courtesy of the British Fashion Council. Photography by Cris Fragkou.
Photo courtesy of the British Fashion Council. Photography by Cris Fragkou.
Photo courtesy of the British Fashion Council. Photography by Cris Fragkou.

Interested in more London Fashion Week content? Read everything about Simone Rocha’s FW24 collection here.

, ,