JW Anderson Presents Distorted Sartorialism for Spring Summer 2024

By: Vanya Harapan
06/20/2023
en
Thumbnail courtesy of JW Anderson

Always one to give audiences something out of the ordinary, fashion designer Jonathan Anderson presented its latest collection for JW Anderson at Men’s Milan Fashion Week. Refreshing, fun, and progressive are just some of the words to describe a co-ed runway that explored new frontiers in fashion. 

At First Glance

Showcasing menswear and resort collections in a joint show, JW Anderson presented a catwalk that opened with a grey rugby shirt, shorts, and clogs combination. The following look consisted of a knit vest, drawstring pants, and paw-like footwear. Generally, sportswear-inspired and knitwear pieces for summer are made of lightweight fabrics and minimal embellishments, yet Anderson’s added his own twists to these essentials. Using heavyweight fabrics, the shirts held structure associated with outwear, while the knitted vests were decorated with mélange knits swirling down the torso. These signifiers hinted that, despite appearing casual at first glance, the collection was filled with unexpected details and intricacies. 

Intentionally Disheveled

Models then paraded in summer-ready, skin-baring fits, including plunging V-neck hoodies and pompous mini dresses. Pops of leather made an appearance on the runway through leather coats with oversized lapels and epaulets. Similarly, shorts with an extra panel at the side and blouses with a huge singular ruffle were spotted on the catwalk. This distortion of classic silhouettes was part of Anderson’s exploration of “two-dimensional shapes [taking] over garments [and] highlighting intentionally disheveled looks.” These design codes appeared on sweaters with unmatched sleeves, long tanks with untrimmed edges, and deep-neck knitwear with off-center necklines. 

Playing with Knits

Anderson also explored the realm of cozy textiles by experimenting with wool and knits. An array of sleeveless wool pieces with jutting swirls around the chest consistently turned heads throughout the show. Playful takes on popcorn texture were another highlight as Anderson applied a waxed cotton cord material to knit vests. Meanwhile, a less bulbous knit was used in labyrinth-esque vests. However, the true stars of the show were the puffy tops — literally made with balls of yarn — that added a touch of childlike fantasy while still showcasing Anderson’s craftsmanship. 

All About The Accessories

In addition to clothing, the brand presented a new selection of bags and shoes. On the footwear front, Anderson mostly tapped into clogs and paw-like slip-ons — with the exception of the occasional stilettos or espadrilles. The chunky clogs varied mostly in material, ranging from sleek silk to polished leather. In his paw ventures, the designer applied paw-tip ends onto men’s footwear such as Oxford and slip-on shoes. As for bags, the brand translated the popcorn texture of knitwear pieces onto a plethora of totes. Leather handbags featuring JW Anderson’s signature chunky chain made an appearance on the runway but Anderson also presented clean structured bags for those looking for a minimal look.

This collection was a love letter to the things that surround Anderson — his father’s rugby background, Cornishware ceramic pieces, and even his studio’s sofa. The Irish designer added his sartorial and subversive touch to the things that nurture his history. With the lineup of new, head-turning pieces presented at Men’s Milan Fashion Week, Anderson proved once again that turning mundanity into innovation truly is his forte. 


Want to read more about the latest runways? Read about Prada’s Spring Summer 2024 collection here!