New York-based label Snow Xue Gao brought bright colors, floral motifs, and jovial conviviality to New York Fashion Week. Presented on September 13, their SS23 showโ€”hosted at the newly opened Snow Xue Gao flagship store on Bowery Streetโ€”drew inspiration from the lively culture of New York City. 

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Mixed-Prints Montage

โ€œThis really is a collection for our neighbors,โ€ designer Snow Xue Gao told Vogue about her eponymous brandโ€™s Spring/Summer 2023 collection. Previously nominated to LVMHโ€™s Prize for Young Fashion Designers and listed in Forbes Asia 30 Under 30, the Parsons School of Design alumnus inaugurated a new chapter for her brand with her latest runwayโ€”her first since the Fall Winter 2019 season. 

Inspired by the lower Manhattan neighborhood and the melting pot of cultures surrounding her storeโ€”located strategically between Chinatown and SoHoโ€”Gaoโ€™s collection explored mainstays of the brand such as asymmetric cuts and floral motifsโ€”her floral artistic foundation as she puts it. The looks, equal part romantic and eloquent, epitomized the feeling of the warmer seasons. In true Snow Xue Gao fashion, the collection was filled with color, prints, and a touch of the brandโ€™s unconventional garment construction. 

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The collision of multiple aesthetics, one of Gaoโ€™s modi operandi, was masterfully presented through the integration of pattern blocking in every piece. Set against the equally vibrant background in her flagship store, the runway was an ode to Gaoโ€™s tradition of working at the intersection of Eastern and Western. 

Photographed by KANAKSTUDIO.  All images courtesy of Snow Xue Gao.

Gao experimented with playful shapes in this collection. Peasant sleeves and spaghetti straps dominated the runway, but a series of halter tops, sleeveless tops, and half-sleeve tops also had the chance to shine. Asymmetric draping bestows upon Snow Xue Gaoโ€™s collections a personal touch, while simultaneously tip-toeing the line that separates traditional definitions of masculine and feminine fashion. Skirts and dresses stood in stark contrast to boxier tops that reimagined the conventional feminine silhouette.

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Photographed by Filippo Fior.  All images courtesy of Snow Xue Gao.

Snow Xue Gao At Its Core

Since her debut collection in 2017, Gao has never shied away from introducing traditional Chinese themes into her designs. Her culture, after all, has become a pivotal element of her brand. Her latest effort, however, is probably where the designer better showcased what Snow Xue Gao stands for. And not only through the design elements that have grown to become her signatureโ€”geometrically deconstructed cuts and mixed printsโ€”but also through the approachable spirit of a brand that represents the joyous meeting of two cultures. 

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If you enjoyed this recap of Snow Xue Gaoโ€™s show, check out our rundown of Peter Doโ€™s SS23 collection here.